English: A French view of the clothing styles of the Golkonda kings; a plate from Racinet, 1888

A French view of the clothing styles of the Golkonda kings; a plate from Racinet, 1888

Source: ebay, Dec. 2001

From the original description:

"The illustrations here show the last chiefs of the Hindustani Kingdom of Telingana, of which Golconde was the capital...

                                          ON THE LEFT:

Djihan-Khan, wearing an unusual turban, quite unlike that worn by Muslims in that it comes over the forehead in a point. Made of fine silk, it is held in place by a golden ribbon with pearls and an emerald in the centre. At its top is a golden jewel, representing the sun, set with large rubies; this fastens a spray of fine feathers that bend down under the weight of two diamonds. A band of pearls and fine stones is attached at the base of the feathers and hangs down on either side of the turban like a necklace. An under-jerkin covers all the upper body, and is fastened by a belt at the waist. Rich and poor alike wear this type of costume, designed to give protection against the sudden changes of weather characteristic of the region. Wide silk trousers taper down beneath the jerkin to a narrow fit at the ankle. Then come velvet slippers, slightly turned up at the toes and leaving the heels exposed. Over this costume, Djihan-Khan wears a wide robe of an almost transparent muslin, held by a silver-plated belt that is inset with precious stones. Beneath it are two sashes of cashmere with gold bordering - a badge of rank.

                                         ON THE RIGHT:

Schah-Soliman, carrying a shield made of rhinoceros hide and decorated with six metal rivets. This Rajput is smelling a flower: a reminder of the interest that Indians of rank showed in perfume."